Craic Guide to Parma


Parma, Italy
By Cooperman
January 9 2006

Recent European forays have been almost exclusively to Southern France. For many seasons we've all yearned for a change in destination. Our trip to Parma in January looks like being our most popular of the season. Here Cooperman (and others) give us some insights. Try not to end up in Majorca...

Craic Guide to Parma

With due deference for all who have been before may I offer some information for visitors to Parma?

Parma is a small but perfectly formed City. Flat, and with everything in walking distance. Population approximately 100,000. There are two teams, Parma Overmach and SKG GRAN Parma, we have drawn Overmach or as it now appears “Rugby Parma”.

The Stadium is close to the City Centre and Railway Station, the Stadio Lanfranchi, in Via Piacenza.

Hotels

There are a number in the town center, they are marked, as is the stadium, on this map.

As this map is rather small to fit the Sportnetwork format we have located a full size one elsewhere on the web. You can access this by clicking on this link.

Slightly further out is the Maria Luigia less than half a mile from the centre, and easily walked. If you have a large wallet try the Hotel de Ville 5*, or the Star Hotel du Parc, again within walking distance.

Sights

I am not a museums person, but in the period before and after the match there is plenty to see. I would however recommend that if you only see two things make them the Pink Marble 12th Century Baptistery, in Piazza Duomo; and the restored Teatro Farnese in the Pilotta next to the National Gallery. The Pilotta is the large partly bombed (American friendly fire) building set back behind the small park in Via Garibaldi. It will cost about a quid to see each. If you are not impressed by either I will be very surprised. Pilotta by the way was an early form of soccer played in some Mediterranean countries

Rail Travel

You can buy the tickets online, then take your reference number to the Automatic Ticket Machines (which display in English on request) and your tickets are printed while you wait. Then onto the validation machine and the train, easy as falling off a log!

Travelling first class is only a couple of quid extra (unlike here). BUT remember to VALIDATE YOUR TICKET BEFORE YOU GET ON THE TRAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The process is:-

  1. Buy ticket.
  2. Validate it before getting on the train; all stations and most platforms have YELLOW boxes with an orifice for inserting the ticket. It stamps the end with time and date. BIG fines if you forget, being a tourist is not a good enough excuse.

Drinking

There are masses of bars and you will not go thirsty! The Bistro incidentally is usually open till about 2am, for the night owls. There is of course the compulsory Irish Bar near the Duomo (Cathedral).

I would suggest that the best place to gather is in Piazza Garibaldi, and hopefully le Bistro will have organised an emergency Guinness Bar.

The local wine is a lightly sparkling red - Lambrusco - served chilled, very dry and delicious, forget any misconceptions you may have of the Lambrusco you may have drunk here!

Beer is more expensive and eating and drinking in the main square is not cheap, like any town, it is however generally less costly than France.

Eating

The Parmense are very proud of their food, not just the Prosciutto and Parmigiano. (Local Cured Ham and Cheese).

Unlike French Cuisine the local food is unhindered by pretentious sauces, and would best be looked on as refined country cooking.

Some items on the menu that you probably won't find in the phrase books are; Cottechino a cooked salami. Spalla Cotta and Torta Fritta - cooked shoulder of ham with a very special fried bread. Guancia di Manzo - Cheek of beef, usually braised, very tender and delicious. You will also get the opportunity to try Cavallo horse, very popular in the region, although not to my particular taste.

Here are just a few of the excellent Restaurants in Parma and a couple of tips.

  1. Dei Corrieri, Strada Conservatorio 1. (The old Post House, very good Parma Cuisine, reasonable prices.
  2. Del Tribunale, Vicolo Politi 5. as above but a touch more expensive.
  3. La Filoma, Borgo Venti Marzo 5. a bit more special
  4. Orfeo, Via Carducci, the best Pizzas in town

The people of Parma eat out as a hobby so for the better restaurants it is advisable to book. Most Italians will eat Antipasto, Pasta, Primo and Secondo followed by dolce. It is not compulsory! It is quite acceptable for instance to take a plate of Prosciutto between two as your starter and follow with a Pasta or Primo/Secondo (First or Second Main course - the trenchermen and women among you may of course want to go the whole hog!)

What you won't find in the city centre are BurgerK or McD, however, there are two Kebab bars in Strada Garibaldi, one near the Hotel Maria Luigia the other by the Pilotta.

Remember, Parma is a very rich City and you will find that people do tend to dress up to go out. Piazza Garibaldi and Strada Cavour are the two places to "people watch", but between 3pm and 8pm things are usually quiet, livening up again from 10pm.

My Favourites

Le Bistro (and the adjoining Caffe Orolgio) both owned by my friend Armando (an avid Parma FC fan) is located in the main square, (Piazza Garibaldi), to the left of the Statue of Gari himself.

Start with a plate of Prosciutto, which melts like butter in your mouth, or the speciatlita di Parma (a platter of local hams and cheese and salami)and follow it with Pasta al Pomodoro (slightly picante), very simple food but all freshly made, (The Caffe Orientale next along to the right is flashier, more expensive and – [it is alleged] – owes a lot to the Italian equivalent of Brake Brothers!).

Opposite the Bistro about 150 yards down Via Farini is the “Enoteca Fontana”, at the end of the second parade of shops on the left, the best sandwich bar in the world – also with an excellent range of wines.

Del Gesso (11, Strada Maestri Ferdinando. Parma) is renowned for its Fillet Steaks (I believe they use Irish Beef).

Del Tribunale (5, Vicolo Politi.Parma) is excellent for Braised Veal Cheek, the most tender, fat free and tasty meat you can imagine.

“Anolini in Brodo”, broth with little Pasta shapes usually filled with Parmesan is an excellent warming soup to start with, available at both restaurants. Anolini are little “Belly Button” shapes by the way.

The local wine is a lightly sparkling red - Lambrusco - served chilled, very dry and delicious, forget any misconceptions you may have of the Lambrusco you will have drunk here!

Beer is more expensive and eating and drinking in the main square is not cheap, like any town, it is however generally less costly than France. Opposite the Bistro about 150 yards down Via Farini is the Enoteca Fontana, at the end of the second parade of shops on the left, the best sandwich bar in the world also with an excellent range of wines.

Weather

It will be very cold, in recent years it has even snowed at Christmas and New Year and the evenings are very crisp. The weather at the beginning of January is usually dry, sunny and chilly. It does rain too as the Saracens supporters who went last year will testify!

Surrounding Area

Castel Arquato is only one of the many Castles of the Parma and Piacenza regions. Most are within an hour of Parma, and Fontanellato and Torrechiara are two more very striking fortresses. Like most of the web sites this is in Italian only but has some photos to show what they look like. Click the links on the right hand side of the page under I Castelli where each is listed.

Brescello is nearby and is the home of Don Camillo and Pepone the fictional Priest and Communist Mayor, there is a small museum there which is quite interesting, and you can buy Don Camillo or Pepone labelled red wine.

There are also loads of Strada di Vini, good drives but I’m not sure if the wineries are open on Sundays.

In short, south of the city are the Apennines, north is the Po Valley. Within the 2 hour drive there are Bologna, and, probably even nicer, Mantova, where there is plenty to see.

In Short

Have a fabulous time in what I think is one of the loveliest little cities in the world.

Tips from others:

Rupes: (Sarries)

To all planning on going - we went to Parma last December and, as Coops says, it hacked down with rain from the moment we landed to the moment we got back on the plane. Parma is a top place though, Le Bistro a top bar which may shut at some point (but only if you stop drinking) and some of the restaurants are superb. We stayed in the Mario Luigi which isn't bad at all - can't comment on the breakfasts, didn't make either. It does have flowerbeds outside though, which I understand from reading this board are kind of pre-requisite.

Top place Parma, make sure you get out there if you only do one trip this winter!

Large: (Sarries)

One thing that hasn't been metioned is ground facilities.

There was a marquee with bar and bbq there last season but the conveniences left a bit to be desired. I recommend most heartily that anyone who goes there takes a packet of tissues - just in case!

Getting There - an addendum by Griff

Air Travel to Parma

There are two main choices for nearest cities with Airports, Bologna and Milan.

Bologna is closest just under an hour on the train from Parma. It has two airports, Bologna G. Marconi (BLQ) and Bologna Forli International Airport (FRL). Both are near the railway station (4 - 6km) and both have shuttle-buses.

Milan is only a little further away (75 mins on train) and has three airports. Milan Linate International Airport (LIN) is close to the city and has a shuttle-bus to the railway station. Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) and Milan Bergamo Orio Al Serio Airport (BGY) are both 45km outside the city and, while they both have a bus connection into Milan, it has been suggested that these airports should only be considered if the others have no flight availability.

The choice of airlines is varied: